太爷鸡
<P class=MsoNormal style="TEXT-INDENT: 22pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0; mso-char-indent-size: 11.0pt" align=left><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt">从前广州的大北直街（今解放北路）有一条百灵街，街内有一座药王庙，即今广州市总工会会址里。药王庙以东不远，有一座房子，门檐下临街靠西的角，有一间木做的小亭子，阔</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt">1</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt">米多，深不足</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt">1</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt">米，里面有张案桌放了砧板挂钩，跟今天马路边烧卤摊档的亭子相似，亭子左边挂了一块小木牌。上曰“姑苏生记”。大概是这房子主人周桂笙所写。周桂笙，晚清时当过知县，辛亥以后，没得官做了，流寓在广州，但大家还习惯称呼他为“周太爷”。</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="TEXT-INDENT: 22pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0; mso-char-indent-size: 11.0pt" align=left><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">姑苏生记就是他家摆卖熏鸡的小档口，由周太爷家的妾婢仆妇们经营。他们所做的熏鸡，都是农家饲养的本地鸡项，大约</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">1000</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">克重，没有下过蛋的。将鸡当洗干净后，用盐、老抽、绍酒加上姜片、糖、椒、八角，把鸡腌约</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">1</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">小时，放在油锅里煎得金黄，再放在瓦煲里，用原来腌鸡的绍酒酱油等（可加一些水），将鸡煮一煮，不太熟，便捞起了晾干。然后熏鸡，把香片茶叶、米、片糖炒匀，也可加一点水，在锅里烧焦了，发出褐黄的烟，煮得刚熟的鸡架放在锅里，紧紧用盖盖上，让黄烟把鸡熏得全身褐黄色。</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体"> </SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">周家制售的熏鸡被称为“太爷鸡”，可能还是对这位周太爷有点钦佩之意。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体">1936</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">年，长堤六国饭店以“驰名太爷鸡”为号召，挂了很大的霓虹招牌，实则制作中已有点变化。今天市上制售的太爷鸡，亦已不是江浙人所喜的那种烟熏味了。</P></SPAN>
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