教你调制美味蟹油
<SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">中国菜肴素以色香味俱佳而闻名于世。而菜肴的味，常谓之为菜肴的“核心”、“灵魂”。评判菜肴的味又以是否“鲜美”而定论。在味精未曾被发现和应用于烹饪中之前，蟹油已经成为我国民间常见的一种鲜味调料，历代厨师都非常重视和讲究蟹油的制作和使用。它的味道鲜美，食用方便，可以长期保存，是家庭烹饪中的常用鲜味调料。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US> <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p></SPAN>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">古代美食家李渔曾说过：“蟹之鲜而肥，甘而腻，白似玉而黄似金，已造色、香，味三者之至极，更无一物可以上之。”故此古人常将蟹肉、蟹脂、蟹黄用猪油“炼”后收藏起来，作为“蟹油”，供制作肴馔时用。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">以蟹油加入菜点，鲜香浓醇，风味独特，其鲜味远胜于普通味精。如冬令的“蟹油豆腐”、“蟹油青菜”，素中有荤，趁热食用，更胜一筹。若将蟹油与肉或菜拌成馅心，制成的面点风味别致；若将蟹油用于煮汤面条，则软滑爽口，汤鲜味香，诱人垂涎。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">蟹油的味道特别鲜美，其原因是蟹肉中含有多种鲜味成分。这些鲜味成分大致可分为三类，一类是游离的呈鲜味的氨基酸。据测定蟹肉中游离的氨基酸占整个鲜味成分的</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>55</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">％，这是蟹肉呈鲜主要成分。第二类是核苷酸如肌昔酸。虽然肌苷酸的含量不高，但它的鲜味却高于普通味精。第三类是含氮碱、糖类、盐类等，它们一定程度上起着助鲜的作用。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">蟹油可调味多种食品，可以百配，烧肉圆，烧菜心，放一匙蟹油即成味美的“蟹油狮子头”和“蟹油菜心”，下面条时，调上一点蟹油，面之鲜美，无可形容。用它来烧“蟹油豆腐”味道的鲜美也非一般美味可比。用它烩黄芽菜、菜花或调入菜肉的馅料里包馄饨，包饺子，做包子，无不是顶级的美味，即使不是食蟹的季节亦能享用这“百鲜之首”的美味。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">蟹油的制作是先把蟹黄、蟹肉剔出，然后在锅里放入与蟹肉、蟹黄等量的素油</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>(</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">或熟猪脂</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>)</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">，把姜块、葱结放入油中炸香后拣出，接着将蟹肉、蟹黄、精盐和少许黄酒放入油中，拌和均匀，用旺火熬制。随着锅内蟹肉中的水分排出，锅中出现水花且泡沫泛起，此时可改用中火熬制，待油面平静时，再移入旺火。如此反复几次，使蟹肉、蟹黄中的水分在高温下基本排出，当油面最后趋于平静后，蟹油就算制成。冷却后，贮于瓶罐中，藏于冰箱里，可保存较长时间。制作蟹油时要注意：蟹肉、蟹黄中的水分一定要熬干，这是关键。否则不但影响蟹油的风味，而且容易变质，难以保存。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">蟹油在烹饪中既可做菜，又可用以制作点心。下面各介绍一款：</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0; mso-char-indent-size: 10.5pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">一、蟹油炒虾仁</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0; mso-char-indent-size: 10.5pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">原料：大虾仁</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>250</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克，蟹油</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>50</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克，蟹肉</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>50</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克，鸡蛋清</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>30</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克，香菜末</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>2</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克，熟猪油</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>700</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>(</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">实耗约</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>50</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>)</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">，料酒</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>25</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克，盐</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>3</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克，味精</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>5</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克，葱、姜末各</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>10</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克，湿淀粉</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>6</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克，胡椒粉</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>1</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克，酱油少许，香醋</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>2</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">克。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0; mso-char-indent-size: 10.5pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">制法：</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US>1</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">、将大虾仁洗净，沥干水后放在碗中，先用味精、盐拌一拌，再用蛋清、湿淀粉挂浆，然后放入五成热的大油炒勺中划熟倒出。</SPAN> <SPAN lang=EN-US>2</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">、将大油、葱姜末倒入热油勺中煸炒后，把蟹油、蟹肉下入，而后加入酱油、味精、盐和料酒，炒透后倒入虾仁，翻炒几下，取出盛盘。盘底放有香醋，撒上胡椒粉，盘两侧放上香莱末即成。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0; mso-char-indent-size: 10.5pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">特点：色泽金黄，柔嫩可口，味道鲜美。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0; mso-char-indent-size: 10.5pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">二、蟹黄汤包</SPAN> <SPAN lang=EN-US><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 21pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0; mso-char-indent-size: 10.5pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">蟹黄汤包皮薄汤多，馅鲜味美，可谓点心中的上品。其味之所以格外鲜美，在于鲜猪肉馅内加进了蟹油。选用肥硕之蟹，洗净煮熟，剔取蟹黄，再用熟猪油熬炸即可制成蟹油。制馅时，取鲜猪肉馅，加适量的酱油、葱花、姜末、白糖、黄酒搅拌，再放入蟹油和碎皮冻调匀即可。皮冻是蟹黄汤包汤汁多的奥妙所在。吃这种包子，应先将皮咬一小口，吮汤汁，再食皮、馅。否则汤汁四溅，必然令人狼狈不堪。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
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